Thursday, January 05, 2006

The mystery of the Old Quarter

In a previous post I remarked on my tendency to get lost in the Old Quarter. After consulting, cross referencing and perusing the three maps I have, I couldn't understand why I kept losing my way.

It turns out that the streets are named after the trades that operate there. For instance, Pho Hang Gai = Silk Street, Pho Lo Ren = Blacksmiths Street, Pho Hang Bong = Cotton Street. Sounds simple enough, however, the name of the street changes as you move along. If you find yourself in the part of the street where cotton clothes are sold, you're in Hang Bong, if they're selling silk, you're in Hang Gai.

Not every map bothers to put every name on one stretch of road, so its easy to get lost. Iwas lost the other day when I found myself in Pho Lo Su = Coffin Street. The headstones feature the image of the departed, the epitaph hand-carved by stonemasons at the edge of the road.


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